****************Frequently Asked Questions about Diamonds****************
Including Sections on Metals and Colored Gems
Version 1.4 2-16-95
UPDATES: spelling corrections
Buying diamonds FAQ list...Maintained by Jim Kokernak. Send corrections,
comments and additions to kokerj@rpi.edu.
Note: I claim to be no more than an amateur diamond enthusiast...
*************************************************************************
What this FAQ is:
A guide to evaluating diamond quality and jewelery craftsmanship.
It covers diamonds extensively and will gradually include the
realm of colored gemstones. Discussions of associated metals
are included. It is NOT a ten minute appraisal guide. It may
contain more information than is necessary for the engagement
ring shopper and may appear overwhelming, but all of the information
contained should help you to become an educated shopper.
Section Contents
------- --------
1 Getting started/finding a jeweler
2 Diamond Shapes
3 The Four C's
4 The Importance of Cut
5 Words about Color
6 Inclusions: What's OK, What's Not
7 Selecting a Stone/Four C's and Cost
8 Settings
9 How to not get Ripped Off
10 Metals (I. Gold,II. Platinum) (incomplete)
11 Colored Gemstones (incomplete)
12 Useful Publications
SECTION 1: Getting Started
--------------------------------
Q. What is the difference between an engagement ring and a wedding band?
A. The engagement ring is traditionally given by a man to a women to
symbolize the intent for marriage. It is usually presented when the
man proposes to the woman and is worn throughout the engagement.
Traditionally the engagement ring has a single diamond in it. This
is called the diamond solitaire. It is not uncommon to see people
use a variety of rings as symbols of their engagement. This FAQ deals
solely with the purchase of diamonds. Finally, the wedding band is
traditionally a gold band with no seams. This continuity is supposed
to symbolize the eternal bond of marriage. These are presented to
one and other at the wedding ceremony.
Q. Why a diamond?
A. The diamond being the hardest substance on earth was valued as
early as the 15th century. The first diamond engagement ring was
given in 1477 by Archduke Maximilian of Austria to Mary of Burgundy.
The wedding took place 24 hours later. In these times, diamonds were
uncut, so they were valued as a symbol of strength and protection,
not beauty. This is where the tradition began.
Q. Why is the wedding ring worn on the 4th finger?
A. There are two speculated reasons. The rings were actually worn on
the thumb in the 17th century, but the 4th finger was used during
the ceremony. Some feel that during a Christian wedding, the priest
arrives at the 4th finger after touching three fingers on the left
hand "In the Name of the Father...Son...and Holy Ghost...". Others
believe the Egyptian myth that the ring finger follows the "vena amoris"
or vein of love...which supposedly runs directly to the heart.
Q. How do I intelligently shop for diamonds?
A. Arm yourself with knowledge. Most stones are graded on a set of
ratings set forth by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
Unfortunately, these gradings are often misrepresented by the
actual sellers of the diamonds. Essentially, they can give the
stones virtually any grading they want, and if the consumer is
not educated s/he will not know the difference. Learn the grading
scales and look at MANY stones. It is A MUST to find a jeweler that
adheres to the GIA standards.
Q. How do I find a reputable jeweler.
A. Ask around. Find family owned shops that have been around for
years. There are some stores that are members of the American
Gem Society (AGS). The jewelers at these stores are required
by AGS to be tested annually and must uphold certain standards.
Most still grade their stones on the GIA scales (AGS does have
their own) and adhere strictly to them. It will usually appear
as though these stores are charging more for their stones (over
mall stores for example), however you are truly getting what you
pay for.
Q. What is a CGA, MGA, etc...?
A. There are several terms out there that are meant to indicate
the level of experience of a stores jeweler...they are:
Jeweler: Anybody can call themselves a jeweler.
Gemologist: This is an uncontrolled title which can be
used by anyone with a desire to set up shop
and sell stones.
Graduate Gemologist (GG): This title is awarded by the GIA to
individuals who have completed a basic course
in diamonds and colored stones. Once awarded,
this diploma is good for life, which is
an awfully long time.
Registered Jeweler: This title is awarded by the AGS to individuals
who have extensive gemological knowledge and adhere
to AGS's rigid ethical code. It must be renewed
each year based on continuing education and
ethical business practice.
*Certified Gemologist Appraiser (CGA): AGS title for one who is
annually tested on his/her
ability to appraise gems.
Unlike the Registered Jeweler,
A CGA has mastered sophisticated
testing procedures.
*Master Gemologist Appraiser (MGA): Essentially gods of the gem
world. Similar to a CGA, but to a
higher degree. The only number in
in the hundreds in the states.
* if you deal with either of these types, you should feel confident
with their ratings and ultimately with your purchase.
Q. Should I buy a loose stone or do I get a better deal buying the whole
ring?
A. This depends on the store. When setting a diamond, it is common (and
sensible) to put any defects or "inclusions" under a prong. The problem
with buying the whole ring is that the stone cannot be examined out of
the setting. Most stores will not charge a setting fee if both the stone
and setting are purchased there. Buy the stone loose if you can.
The remainder of this FAQ will deal with GIA terminology unless noted.
Section 2: Diamond Shapes
--------------------------
Let's define some terms here:
1. Facet...any of the flat "sides" of the diamond.
2. Table...On a brilliant cut (bc) stone...the top octagonal facet
3. Girdle...The (typically )frosty white ring at the widest part.
4. Culet...The bottom point (actually a facet) on a bc stone
5. Pavilion...The portion of the stone below the girdle
6. Crown...The portion of the stone above the girdle
7. Fire...The quality of the diamond that breaks reflected light into
a colorful array.
8. Brilliance...The quality of the diamond that reflects light without
changing it (sometimes called sparkle).
9. Fluorescence...The characteristic of some diamonds to fluoresce
certain colors under some light.
10. Natural...Usually found on the girdle. It is a small section that
was on the side of the raw diamond. It appears as a slightly
rough flat spot on the girdle.
11. Feather...A jewelers way of saying "crack". Appears as a white
feather within the diamond.
Table, Facet
_______________
/ \
/ \ <-----Crown
Girdle----> <<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ / <-----Pavilion
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
* <------------- Culet
Q. Is the shape the the same as the cut?
A. Sort of. The real "cut" as it is referred to deals with the quality
of the final product in terms of its desired shape (for further
discussion of cut, see "The 4 C's"). There are essentially 4 common
shapes of diamonds: Round (or brilliant), Emerald, Marquis and Pear.
Q. What shape are engagement rings?
A. Any one of the above, but the most common is the round brilliant cut.
It reflects more light back through the top. Many people find
this dazzling effect makes the ring more attractive. Because of the
facets or sides, inclusions (defects) are tougher to see. Some
people prefer the pear or marquis. The emerald cut is less common
in the <1carat size. The value of the stone is affected in some cases
by shape. The shapes other than round are called FANCY. The effect
on price is summarized below:
Carat Weight (see next section) Fancy Shapes Round Brilliant
------------------------------ ------------ --------------
0.00-0.14 more $$$ less $$$
0.15-0.29 similar similar
>0.30 less $$$ more $$$
Q. Why do they seem to follow this pattern?
A. Small rounds are more common, easier to make and sell more quickly
than fancies. For larger stones, rounds are in higher demand and the
supply is limited. The only exception is the marquis in the larger sizes,
which is comparable to or more than the round brilliant
Q. OK, I see all of the terminology...now what is good and what is bad?
A. The first six terms just describe the geometry of the diamond. Fire
and sparkle are both qualities that vary from stone to stone and are
affected by the proportions of the diamond. Unfortunately, altering
proportions to increase one will likely decrease the other. Look for
a good balance of fire and sparkle. Fluorescence occurs naturally and
synthetically. It is not common, so jewelers will try to command a
higher price. In general it does not change the value of the stone
unless it is severe and it *decreases* the value. Severely fluorescent
stones often have an oily appearance in sunlight. Naturals if not severe
are not bad. Small feathers are common. Any crack that extends more than
1/3 of the way through the stone may cause structural problems.
Q. What shape is best?
A. That depends on the following:
1. Personal preference
2. Desired brilliance (round brilliant has the most)
3. Weight (Fancies look more elegant in large sizes)
4. How big you want it to look (Fancies tend to look larger)
5. Shape and size of hand (experiment to find what is most flattering)
6. Color and clarity of diamond (round brilliant hides defects and
yellow tints best)
Q. What about rings with many small stones?
A. Stones less than 0.09ct are often used in these rings. The advantages
of the round brilliant cut in this case are (relative to fancies):
-more brilliance
-less expensive
-easier to replace, match and set
-flaws less visible
-lower setting cost
Fancies allow a wider selection of ring designs and more stylistic
options. Essentially, rings with small fancies cost more than rings
with small round stones.
Section 3: The Four C's
-----------------------
Q. What are the "four C's" related to diamond quality.
A. The four C's are the carat (weight), color, clarity and cut of the
stone. They are described below:
1. Carat: This is the weight of the stone. Sometimes referred to in points.
There are 100 points to a carat. A 35 point stone is .35 carat.
I carat is 1/5 of a gram or 200 milligrams. "Carats"
represent the weight and not the physical size of the stone as
is often thought. For example, 1 carat diamond is physically
larger than a 1 carat ruby since ruby is a more dense substance.
2. Color: Color is usually undesirable in diamonds. Typically ratings
will be alphabetical with "lower" letters being less color.
AGS has a similar 0-10 scale. The corresponding gradings are
listed below:
GIA AGS ______________________
D 0
E 0-1
F 1-2 Mounted stones appear
G 2 colorless
H 3
I 4 _______________________
J 5
K 5-6
L 6 Mounted stones appear
M 7 increasingly tinted
N 7
O 8
P 8
Q 8 _____________________________
R-U 9 Mounted stones appear yellow
V-Z 10 ____________________________
D, E and F are considered "Colorless". G, H, I and J are
"near colorless". K, L and M are faint yellow or "top silver"
and N to Z are very light or light yellow. Z+ grades are
considered "fancy yellow". Most stones you will find will
be in the E-F to the J-K range.
3. Clarity: You will typically find ratings such as this:
GIA AGS
--- ---
FL 0 ......Flawless
IF 1 ......Internally Flawless
VVS1 1 ......Very, Very slightly included
VVS2 2 ......" " to a less perfect degree
VS1 3 ......Very slightly included
VS2 4 ......" " to a less perfect degree
SI1 5 ......Slightly included
SI2 6 ......" " to a less perfect degree
I1 7-8 .....Included
I2 8-9 ....." " to a less perfect degree.
I3 9-10 ....Severely Included
Inclusions are imperfections within the stone. Ratings
from VVS1 to SI2 represent inclusions that are not visible
with the naked eye. Inclusions range from bits of carbon
(black spots) to slight cracks (white "feathers" within
the stone).
4. Cut: My discussion of cut refers to the round or "brilliant" cut.
All diamonds are cut. The resultant dimensions of the cut stones
vary. All dimensions are given as a percentage of the width at
the girdle. This allows cuts to be numerically similar for different
sized stones. There are a few accepted ideal cuts, which have
all of the proportions within a few percentage points of a
optimum mathematical model. This optimum model provides the most
brilliant reflection of light through the top of the stone.
A qualified jeweler can provide you with a more detailed
explanation.
There is no grading scale widely used for rating cut.
Q. What is a Loupe and how do I use it?
A. A loupe is the primary tool of the trade for inspecting diamonds. It
is essentially a magnifying glass. Good ones have three lenses in them
and magnify 10x. To properly use one, hold it about 1" in front of
your strong eye with the diamond on the other side. To focus on
various depths within the stone, move the stone, not the loupe.
Be sure to keep your other eye open.
Q. Which is the most important C?
A. Really the fifth C which has gone unmentioned and that is COST!
Set a budget and stick with it.
Q. What has the greatest effect on price?
A. In terms of value, they would rank:
1. Color
2. Clarity
3. Cut/Proportion
4. Carat weight
Q. What has the greatest effect on beauty?
A. Similarly:
1. Cut/Proportion
2. Color
3. Clarity
4. Carat weight
Q. What is a Lazare diamond?
A. Lazare diamonds have a serial number inscribed on the girdle
to help identify them. In most cases they are near ideal cut
stones.
Q. What is a GIA certified stone?
A. It is a stone that has been examined and documented by the GIA.
It is accompanied with a GIA certificate indicating the location of
inclusions, the color, clarity, carat weight and includes a note
about the cut.
Q. What is Clarity Enhancement?
A. Clarity enhancement is a technique used to mask inclusions. A laser
is used to drill small holes from a facet to an inclusion and chemicals
are added to bleach out the inclusion.
Q. Is clarity enhancement a recognized technique?
A. The GIA will not grade clarity enhanced stones. They confirm that it
is a diamond with some filler material.
Q. Does the enhancement really work?
A. Sometimes it helps, but other times the drill holes, which look
like fishing lines from the side, detract more from the stone
than other inclusions. There is no reason to attempt to enhance
the quality of stones graded SI2 or lower, since those inclusions
should not be visible to the naked eye.
Q. Does it affect the durability of the stone?
A. Yes. Because the material filling the stone is different than
diamond, it will expand/contract differently with temperature.
You shouldn't use ultrasonic or steam cleaning on these stones
or you may find yourself with cracks.
Section 4: The Importance of Cut
--------------------------------
Q. Since they rarely grade cut, it must not be important, right?
A. Wrong. Cut is the single most important factor in the appearance
of the stone. Poorly cut stones will appear dull or have dark spots.
Well cut stones will be brilliant and fiery if the stone quality
is reasonable. It is important to be able to judge cut.
Q. What is an ideal cut stone?
A. There are 3 accepted sets of proportions which are considered
ideal cut stones. They are (all proportions are given as a
proportion of the girdle diameter):
1. The Tolkowsky or Standard American Ideal Cut:
Table Width: 53%
Crown height: 16.2%
Overall height: 59.3%
2. The Eppler or European Cut:
Table Width: 56%
Crown height: 14.4%
Overall height: 57.7%
3. The Scan D.N.
Table Width: 57.5%
Crown height: 14.6%
Overall height: 57.7%
The first was calculated in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky. It is supposed to
give the best balance between brilliance and fire. Essentially, the
larger the table, the greater the brilliance at the expense of fire.
A generally termed ideal cut will have a table percentage between
53% and 57% and a depth or height of 58% to 60%. Expect to pay 15%-20%
more for an ideal cut stone. Avoid stones with table percentages above
70% or depths over 64% or under 57%.
Q. Why aren't all stones cut to these specifications?
A. Not all can be. Less that 1% of all stones are considered ideal.
The main motivating factor behind this is money however. Ideal
cut stones result in a greater amount of waste. For this reason,
all but the finest cutters rarely perform these cuts to cut down
on waste. There are only (last I knew) 3 cutters in the US that
perform the Tolkowsky cut.
Q. Is there any way to judge the cut of the stone without making these
measurements?
A. Yes. Well, you can tell if a stone is poorly cut by looking for the
following:
* A white circle resembling a donut in the face-up view of a diamond.
It occurs because the pavilion is too shallow and the girdle is
reflected out.
* Obvious dark spots/centers when viewed face-up. These indicate that
the pavilion was cut too deep.
* Extremely thick girdles reduce the brilliance and make the stone
look small for its weight.
* Look for a girdle that is uneven in thickness (for reasons other
than geometry) around the stone.
One good way to see how well a stone is cut is to view it straight down on
the table. The table and the four corners form an "square shape". On well
cut stones, the sides of the square will bow in *slightly*. Sides that
bow out are less than ideal. The slight inward bowing may be tough to
detect, so consider a seemingly perfect square to be a decent cut. Severely
bowed in squares are also undesirable.
Q. What should I look for in the workmanship of the stone?
A. Well, first of all, if it is a brilliant cut, make sure it is round.
Be sure that the culet is not chipped or broken. The girdle should
not be too thick or its or too thin. The girdle should be straight,
not wavy from the sides. Be sure that the facets of the crown align
with the facets of the pavilion. Any misalignment will show itself
in the girdle. With a loupe of a scope look closely at the girdle.
Stones that are cut in a hurry will have small cracks that extend
into the stone, making it look fuzzy or "bearded". Don't confuse
this with the natural frosty color of the girdle. Sometimes If the
symmetry of the stone is off, or if it is damaged, extra facets may
be added. Be sure the table is parallel to the girdle and the culet
(as seen through the table) is on-center and undamaged.
Q. How many facets are there?
A. On a brilliant full-cut stone there are 58 facets; 32 facets plus
the table above the girdle and 24 facets plus the culet below the
girdle. Some with only 18 facets are referred to as "single cuts".
Section 5: Words About Color:
----------------------------------
Q. What is body color?
A. This is the amount of yellow or brown tint within the stone, not
rare colors that are considered "fancies" (not to be confused with
cuts other than the brilliant, which are also referred to as fancies).
Q. How do you judge color?
A. It is impossible to accurately judge color in a mounted stone.
Because of its brilliance, it is best to judge it looking through
the pavilion with the table down on a while surface.
Q. What is a Premier?
A. A premier is a diamond with a yellowish body color that is masked
by a strong-blue fluorescence. The diamond will appear whiter than
it really is. It will always have an oily or murky appearance in
daylight or fluorescent light. This causes a reduction in value.
Q. My ring fluoresces in certain lights...is that ok?
A. The GIA estimates than 50% of all gem diamonds fluoresce. Blue is
the most common. It has no effect on value (contrary to what the
jeweler may tell you) unless it causes the stone to appear murky.
In that case you should see a reduction in value.
Section 6: Inclusions: What's OK, What's Not
-------------------------------------------
Q. I know that most rings have inclusions, but what is ok and what
isn't?
A. Avoid the following flaws:
-Large milky or cloudy areas
-Big cracks...they threaten the durability. These include big feathers
(big meaning 1/3 the diameter of the stone or more)
-Big chips...they'll get bigger
-Big white, black or colored lines. They reduce brilliance
and threaten durability.
Section 7: Selecting a stone and the effect of the 4 c's on cost:
----------------------------------------------------------------
Q. I've set a budget, but I find so many stones of all different
sizes and qualities that fit my price range. Is there a decent
strategy to use to narrow my choices?
A. My strategy is geared towards getting the best balance between
appearance and size. It is common to try to get the largest stone
you can afford. Unfortunately this stone will not demonstrate the
brilliance *I* desire because of its shortcomings in the other 3
C's. My approach to narrowing choices is as follows based on the
four C's is as follows:
1. Disregard carat. We will come back to that later.
2. Color: Take stones of various color grades and compare them so that
you can learn to tell the difference. At first this will be
very difficult. Notice the effect of color on price. You will
that when you go from "near colorless" to "colorless" the
price skyrockets. Now look at the same stones separately
and see if you can detect the yellow tinge. Since the stone
will always be seen on a finger, and not next to a collection
of other diamonds, concentrate on finding one that does not
appear yellow without comparison. Most people find that J color
or lower appears colorless without comparison. Try to view
in sunlight if possible. Some stores will have a set of reference
stones which they use to grade the color. You will find these
useful to see the various levels of color. Once you have decided
at which point you can detect yellow tinges, you have
determined an upper limit on your desired color.
3. Clarity: This is the biggest scam going. Use a jeweler's loupe or
microscope and view various grades of stones. It is easy to
see differences here. Now view the stones without magnification.
Even knowing the locations of the inclusions, they should not
be visible if the stone is SI2 or better. You now know that
clarity provides high prices with little visible difference.
If you are a collector, the story is different. If you want the
most attractive stone for your money, anything higher than
SI2 is a plus, but not necessary. Inclusions are normalities,
not abnormalities in a diamond. They are useful in helping one
identify a particular stone.
4. Cut: This will have the greatest overall impact on the appearance of the
stone. Unfortunately, it is often the most downplayed aspect of the
diamond. Diamonds can be cut short and fat, making them appear large.
The further that they deviate from the optimum cut, the more dead
spots that will appear. Mall jewelers will often attribute brilliance
to high clarity and good color. In actuality, the cut affects this.
The carat of the stone will be dictated by your budget and the constraints of
color and clarity. If cut is underemphasized, you may simply be lucky and
find a very brilliant stone that is not much more expensive. It all depends
on the store. Once again, try to view stones in sunlight, as that contains
the highest content of visible light. The lights in jewelery stores could
make a coke bottle in a setting look good.
Once you have decided on a price range, go to the dealer. If you tell them
that you are interested in an x carat stone, they know that you haven't done
your homework. If you tell them that you have a budget of X dollars and you
are looking for the nicest stone in terms of cut and overall appearance in
that price range, and you would prefer a stone that has no visible inclusions
you will do much better. Expect them to suggest some out of you range;
obviously they want to get those extra $$$, so state a budget
slightly less than you really want to spend. If they think that you are
stretching your budget for a nicer stone, they will be more willing to cut
you a break. Also, the price on the tag is never what you pay. Get them to
throw in a free initial appraisal for insurance reasons as well.
Q. How a 1 carat diamond is more than 2x the price of a .5 carat diamond
even though they are similarly rated?
A. The cost of a stone increases with carat weight. This stands to
reason, however there is not a general price per carat for all stones.
Instead there is a price per carat for stones in certain sizes. Stones
in the 1/3 to 1/2 carat size are cheaper per carat than those in the
1/2 to 3/4 size. This is to your advantage sometimes. If you would like
to get, say a 1 carat stone of a certain color and clarity, you may find
2 with similar ratings, 1 being 0.98 carat and the other being 1.01 carat.
If the price per carat for "light" carats 0.9 to 1.00 carats is $4000
per carat but for full carats it is $4800 per carat, the two rings will
cost $3920 and $4848 respectively. This is a tremendous price difference
for a 3 point increase in size.
Section 8: Settings
----------------------
Q. I've found the diamond I want, but I don't like the setting...what should
I do?
A. The setting really compliments the diamond. Make them change it. If they
are going to charge you, or won't change it, you probably want to do
business with a different store.
Q. Should I buy a 4 or 6 prong setting for my brilliant cut diamond?
A. This depends on what you like. Smaller stones (0.5 carat) are greatly
affected appearance-wise by the type of setting. Four prongs tend to make
make them look more square while 6 prongs cover more of the stone.
Six prongs will hold the stone more securely in the event that one
fails...and that does happen.
Q. How important is the setting?
A. Well, like tires to a car, it is the most under-rated part of the whole
package. It is the only thing that hangs on to your investment. Cheap
settings are made of stamped yellow gold. The more expensive ones are
white gold, to die struck white gold and palladium all the way up to
platinum. Be sure to find out what the setting is made of and don't
be afraid to spend extra on the setting you want.
Q. How long is a setting good for?
A. It depends on what you do and what the setting is made out of. It
is wise to have it inspected annually.
Q. Is my diamond covered under my renter's/homeowner's insurance?
A. You should check, but probably not. Most policies will allow you
to "list" jewelery on a rider for that policy. The cost seems to
be about $1.75 per $100 of value.
Section 9: How to not get ripped off
------------------------------------
Q. How do I know that I'm getting real diamonds?
A. There are several ways to tell. You can try to scratch it. Diamonds
are the hardest material on the planet, so if it is real, it won't
scratch. If it is out of the setting, place it table down on newsprint
and see if you can read through it. If you can, it is fake. There are
other tests that you can ask the jeweler to perform in your presence
to verify its authenticity.
Q. I'm getting by diamond inspected/remounted/etc. How can I be sure
that they don't switch the stone on me?
A. Know where the inclusions are on your stone. You can have it certified
by the GIA for a fee. They will document the exact location of all
identifying inclusions along with color and carat. If you bought a
Lazare diamond, know what the serial is.
Q. I asked a jeweler how big a stone was and he mentioned something
about spread. What did he mean?
A. Caveat about size: Always ask how much the stone weighs, not how big it
is. There is a term floating around call "spread". The conversation goes
something like this:
Customer: What size is that diamond?
jeweler: This stone here is very beautiful...you have a good eye!
It has a 1 carat spread.
*Note, the customer now thinks the jeweler thinks he/she is dealing with an
educated consumer, so he/she can use the terms of the trade without being
confusing. The customer does not know the term "spread" and does not ask
for fear of losing the image of being educated.
This is what spread is: The spread of the diamond is the weight that an
ideally cut stone with the same outer dimension (diameter at the girdle)
as the stone in question has. The only stones that have equal weights
and spreads are ideally cut stones. Most stones you will find are shallow
cut stones. This means the stone is short and fat. This type of cutting
allows the stone to appear larger while weighing less. As described
before, it affects the brilliance and fire of the stone. A shallow cut
stone with a 1 carat spread will weigh less than 1 carat. A deep cut stone
with a one carat spread will weigh more than one carat. It is good if the
jeweler tells you the weight and the spread as it can help you know if the
proportions are close to ideal (the closer the spread and weight are, the
better). You just have to watch out for jewelers that try to pawn off
the spread as the weight. You can be sure that it is less.
SECTION 10: Metals
-----------------
I. Gold
Q. Why is gold so popular?
A. It does not corrode, tarnish or rust. It is easy to work with and
has an attractive color.
Q. Why is gold alloyed so often?
A. Mixing gold with other metals makes it harder and cheaper.
Q. What is Karat?
A. Unlike "carat", karat refers to the purity level of gold. 24K (karat)
is pure gold. 18K gold is 75% pure gold and 25% other metals.
Q. Which is better, 14K or 18K gold?
A. Neither. 18K is more expensive due to its higher gold content. It
is also more yellow, but it is softer. 14K holds stones a little better.
Ultimately it will be dictated by budget or which you like better
appearance-wise.
Q. How can I be sure that I have real gold?
A. There are 3 tests:
1. Visual inspection
2. Acid test
3. Price test
The visual tester looks for consistent color. Are there black or silver
blotches? Is the karatage marked? How heavy does it feel?
Gold is the only yellow metal that does not react with nitric acid.
If it is 10K or less, it will probably show some reaction due to
the other metals in the alloy. Test kits are available at jewelery
supply stores.
If the price seems too good to be true...it probably is. To figure
the value, you need to know the market value for gold, the weight
of the article and the claimed karatage. The value can be calculated
as follows:
Value = weight*unit value*(karatage/24)
example: say the price of gold is $400 per ounce and you are looking
at an 18K (supposedly) article that is 1/4 ounce in weight.
Its value should be about:
Value=(1/4)*$400*(18/24)=$75
the price may be higher due to workmanship, but if the asking price is
$35, you can be sure that it is not 18K or it is not real gold.
Q. What makes gold "colored"?
A. Pure gold comes in 1 color...yellow. It can be alloyed to form
different colors though. Here is a list of gold alloys:
Color Metals
-------------------------------------------------------------
Bright 18K 75% gold, 15.5% copper, 9.5% silver
Yellow 14K 58.5% gold, 29% copper, 12.5% silver
White 14K 58.3% Gold, 23.5% copper, 12.2% nickel, 5.97% zinc
Deep 75% gold, 25% silver
Green
Deep 75% gold, 25% copper
Pink
Bright 75% gold, 25% aluminum
Red
Blue 75% gold, 25% iron
Black 58.3% gold, 41.7% iron
Purple 70.5% gold, 5% tin, 1.5% thorium
The last 4 are difficult to work with and rarely found
in jewelery. White gold is often coated with Rhodium to
mask any yellow tints.
II Platinum
Q. What are the benefits of platinum?
A. It doesn't corrode, tarnish or rust. It is very hard compared to
gold and silver, but becomes difficult to work with when mixed
with iridium...which it is usually alloyed with.
Q. Why is it so expensive?
A. First, it is much heavier than gold, so similar settings are
heavier. Its price per ounce is more than gold since it is
rarer than gold. It is also must more difficult to work with
due to its high melting point and rapid setting.
Q. I hear a lot of other metals mentioned when discussing settings.
What are they used for?
A. Metals associated with platinum and used in jewelery are:
-rhodium...used to plate white gold and platinum for more silvery
appearance
-iridium...alloyed with platinum to make it harder
-palladium...inexpensive and lightweight...alloyed to reduce cost
-ruthenium...occasionally used to harden platinum
-osmium...hardest known metal. rarely used in jewelery.
SECTION 11: Colored Gemstones
-----------------------------
Q. What do colored stone represent?
A. Aside from birthstones, colored gems are becoming increasingly popular
in engagement and wedding rings. The historical "mystical symbolism"
of stone colors is outlined below:
Color Worn by a man Worn by a woman
---------------------------------------------------------
Yellow Secrecy Generosity
White (clear) Friendship Purity
Integrity Affability
Religion Contemplation
Red Command Pride
Nobility Haughtiness
Lordship Obstinacy
Vengeance
Blue Wisdom Jealousy in Love
High and Magnanimous Politeness
Thoughts Vigilance
Green Joyousness Unfounded Ambition
Transitory Hope Childish Delight
Decline of Friendship Change
Black Gravity Fickleness
Good Sense Foolishness
Constancy Constant Love (married)
Strength Perseverance (married)
Violet Sober Judgement High Thoughts
Industry Spiritual Love
Gravity
Q. Did you make that up?
A. No...I realize it is somewhat useless, but some may find it interesting.
Q. What are my options for stones in any given color?
A. You'll have to wait until next time!
SECTION 12: Useful Publications
-------------------------------
Most of the information in this FAQ can be found in the two references
listed below along with better illustrations and pictures. I would
strongly recommend the purchase of one or both of these to any prospective
diamond buyers.
1. Engagement and Wedding Rings
The Definitive Buying Guide for People in Love
Matlins, Bonanno and Crystal
Gemstone Press 1990. ISBN 0-943763-05-3
269pp $14.95
2. The Diamond Ring Buying Guide
How to Avoid Ripoffs 3rd ed.
Newman
International Jewelery Publications 1992. ISBN 0-929972-18-9
151pp $12.95
Both are excellent guides. I don't think I can recommend one over the
other. The first includes sections on colored gemstones as well.
acknowledgements:
Jeffery A. Miller (millerja@mcs.com)->discussions of clarity enhancement
Dennis Kender (kender@tngstar.cray.com)->thorough spell-checking
******************************End of FAQ**********************************
send any questions to kokerj@rpi.edu
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